Yotsuya Sanei Brings the Joy of Made-to-Order Zori to the World

The Japanese wordatsuraerefers to ordering a custom-made item tailored to your preferences. While it essentially means “made-to-order,” the term is deeply rooted in traditional Japanese attire and hums with a refined sense of elegance. From the excitement of choosing colors and materials to the satisfaction of wearing a meticulously crafted, quality piece,atsuraeis an experience in itself. Few places embody this joy as fully as Yotsuya Sanei, a long-establishedzorisandal maker founded in 1935.

The process of ordering customzoribegins with selecting the height and shape of the sole, followed by choosing the leather color and thong material, for which Yotsuya Sanei offers an impressive selection of 50 to 70 color samples. Once the design is finalized, the artisans take over—wrapping the soles in leather, inserting layers of raw silk floss, and assembling the components with precision. The footbed is not flat but cushioned with silk floss for superior comfort. The entire process takes about a month, culminating in a pair of one-of-a-kindzori, finished with a hand-fitted thong.

“Our top priority is comfort,” says Makoto Ito, the third-generation head of Yotsuya Sanei. This commitment is why the brand does not sell online; instead, they insist on in-person consultations to fine-tune the fit for each customer. Ito explains that people’s feet are rarely symmetrical, but withzori, subtle adjustments can be made to ensure a perfect fit. Yotsuya Sanei also places great emphasis on aftercare—by replacing the thong, customers can maintain a perfect fit over time. This, Ito says, is the true essence ofatsurae.

Now celebrating its 90th anniversary, Yotsuya Sanei continuously challenges itself to innovate. One of its most talked-about creations is the ZORI Sadayakko, which made headlines when introduced in 2018 with its eye-catching high heels and modern color palettes to complement Western fashion. The ZORI Sadayakko gained international acclaim at overseas exhibitions, contributing significantly to sharing the appeal of Japan’s traditional footwear to the world.

Ito recalls that he was particularly pleased when international customers praised the comfort of hiszori, as it meant the fit and feel they had worked so hard to perfect were achieving recognition abroad. Today, the wordzoriis trickling into global awareness, and more and more foreign customers go out of their way to visit the store. One recent visitor from France purchased a pair ofsettasandals. After choosing the thong and having them fitted, the customer exclaimed, “Just my size!”—delighted with the personalized experience.

That said, for Ito, explainingzorisizing to international customers remains a challenge. Traditionally,zoriare worn with the heel slightly protruding from the back, a concept unfamiliar to many non-Japanese customers. As a result, some perceive them as “too small” or “ill-fitting.” To accommodate different preferences, Yotsuya Sanei offers larger sizes in products like the ZORI Sadayakko, designed with international customers in mind.

While times and customer needs may change, Yotsuya Sanei remains dedicated to preserving theatsuraeculture ofzoriwhile evolving with the times. The brand has even collaborated with a French designer and is developing new styles, such as indoorzori. Perhaps one day,atsuraeitself will become a term recognized the world around.

So, what is the true joy ofatsuraefor Ito? “The most rewarding part is drawing out a customer’s preferences and working together to create something special. Seeing their excitement when they hold their finishedzoriand say, ‘Wow!’—that’s the best moment for me.” With customer and craftsperson sharing the pleasure in equal measure, why not experience the joy ofatsuraefor yourself?