Pushing the Boundaries of Kumihimo

With its flagship store in Ueno, Domyo is a renowned kumihimo (braided cord) shop boasting a 360-year history. At the helm is Kiichiro Domyo, the 10th-generation president, who is also an architect. While kumihimo and architecture may seem worlds apart, Domyo sees a strong connection between the two.

“Kumihimo and architecture are alike in how structure and design intertwine seamlessly. Unlike weaving or knitting, kumihimo’s threads move in a three-dimensional manner. Though the finished product appears as a single line, its intricate structure forms patterns that emerge on the surface. Similarly, in architecture, structural elements like beams and columns shape the design. Both fields rely on a deep understanding of structure to create beauty,” he explains.

Domyo designed both the company’s Ueno headquarters and its Kagurazaka store. The headquarters, in particular, embodies his unique approach, with floors mirroring the stages of kumihimo production: from the top-floor archives to the dyeing room on the fourth floor, the design studio on the third, the workshop on the second, and finally the retail space on the ground floor.

“Like kumihimo, architecture resists mass production. While kumihimo is often associated withobijime(ties for obi sashes), it’s also a stunning craft in its own right. This versatility inspired the launch of our DOMYO brand, which aims to create contemporary items, including accessories for Western-style fashion,” he shares.

On the day of the interview, Domyo wore a kumihimo tie, a product that has gained popularity at international exhibitions. Thanks to a technique calledmashidamadeveloped in his grandfather’s era, the company expanded its capabilities to create wider designs. According to Domyo, at overseas exhibitions, people often say they’ve never seen or felt anything like it before, and their support for Japanese craftsmanship resonates globally, particularly through their ties and bold accessories.

To meet growing demand, Domyo emphasizes the importance of nurturing young talent. The factory currently employs about 100 artisans, but the company aims to recruit more to produce bespoke items and new brand products.

“We hold workshops to help artisans refine their skills, improve workplace conditions, and ensure they can work sustainably. Some of our artisans have even come from our kumihimo school, which has been running for 56 years. Expanding awareness of the craft is crucial to preserving tradition,” says Domyo.

Innovation at Domyo stems from a foundation of historical and technical knowledge. The company has been restoring and studying antique kumihimo for over a century. As the company ventures into the global market, sustainability is also key. Domyo explains that in some cases, non-animal materials are required instead of traditional silk, pushing them to innovate without restrictions on materials or techniques.

“Our ultimate goal is to grow from Tokyo into a globally recognized brand. To achieve this, we need to explore unconventional approaches—it would be exciting to try collaborating with leathercraft, creating garments entirely from kumihimo, or even crafting large-scale installations and sculptures.”

Envisioning a future akin to Europe’s iconic maisons, Domyo is determined to elevate the brand to worldwide acclaim—an ambition that lights up his eyes as he speaks of his aspirations for DOMYO.